Trick Training - Spin

"Spin" is another fairly easy trick to teach your dog. It is fun on its own, in a combination of tricks, and is also handy to learn if you hope to do Doggie Dancing.

To begin, stand (or sit if you have a small breed) with your dog in front of you. Hold a treat in front of the dogs nose. Slowly guide the dog in a circle, and when he completes the circuit, click and reward. When you repeat this, make sure you use the same direction every time, so as not to confuse the dog. Continue to repeat this until the dog gets the hang of it. You can then introduce the verbal command. When your dog is doing it reliably, remove the lure, but continue to use the wide sweeping motion with your arm. With plenty of practise, you will be able to reduce the physical cue to a simple spinning motion with your finger. But remember to only use ONE direction.

You can use the above process to teach the dog to spin in the other direction. You must remember to use a different command though. I use "spin" for anti-clockwise, and "twist" for clockwise, but you can use whatever words you want, as long as there is a distinct difference. 

I told you that was an easy one! I have incorporated this into a doggie dancing routine, where Lunik spins around a walking cane, (or whatever I am using as a prop.) However, although I use the same hand gestures, I use a different verbal command, so she is associating the verbal command with the cane.

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Trick Training - Paw

Giving the paw is one of the most popular tricks to teach a dog. It is also one of the easiest.

Generally, most dogs will automatically lift their paw up when you hold out your hand. If your dog does this, all you have to do is click and reward, repeat until the dog is doing it reliably, then introduce the verbal command before you click, repeating until the dog has learnt the command.

However, some people may find that their dog is a bit reluctant to do this. If this is the case with your dog, try the following.

Have your dog sit in front of you. Put a treat in your hand and show it to your dog. Close your hand around it. Initially, your dog will try to pry your hand open with its nose. Keep your fist closed. Eventually, the dog will use its paw to try and get the treat. As soon as it touches your hand with its paw, click and reward. DO NOT introduce the verbal command yet. When the dog is using its paw every time, remove the treat, and instead offer your open hand. When the dog touches it with its paw, (it may take a few tries before it realises what it is suppose to be doing,) click and reward. Continue to practise this until the dog reliably lifts its paw everytime.

You can then introduce the verbal command BEFORE the click. Repeat until the dog has learnt the verbal command.

If you desire, you can use the same technique to teach the dog to give both paws. However, if you do this, remember to use a different command for each paw. I use "paw" and "other one", but you could use "left" and "right" or whatever you wish, as long as there is a distinct difference, so as not to confuse the dog.

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Basic Obedience - Down

Teaching your dog a reliable "down" can be a lifesaver.

I was certainly relieved when I was put in an awful situation where, had I not taught Lunik to "down" on command, she could have ended up seriously hurt or even dead. I had her off leash in an area that is fairly quiet, although there is a small track that runs through it. She was off running around, and I saw her heading straight towards the track, with a car coming. I called her name and followed with a short, sharp "DOWN," at which point she immediately dropped to the floor. I held her there with "stay" until i could reach her and put her leash back on. Had she not learnt this command, I may not have been able to get her to stop.

You may find it easier to sit on the floor with the dog for this exercise, so you do not hurt your back by constantly bending.

It is easier to begin teaching this from a sit, but once the dog has learned what you want it to do, you should vary the routine, so the dog does not always sit before it "downs."

Have the dog sit in front of you. Hold a treat in front of its nose, and slowly lower it towards the floor between the dogs paws. The dog should take its head down. As it does this, slowly pull the treat along the floor, away from the dog's body. If you do this too quickly, the dog may stand up, so make sure you do it slow enough so that the dog can keep its nose in contact with your hand.

As soon as the dogs chest is on the floor, click and reward. Repeat this exercise until the dog is lying down reliably. ONLY then can you add the verbal command. Repeat the exercise, and when the dog lies down, say "down," (or whatever you choose as the command) in a nice tone. Click and treat. You should repeat this until the dog has learnt the verbal command. If you think your dog has learnt the command, try it. If it does not respond, DO NOT keep repeating it. Go back to teaching the command (by using it before the click) until it will.

Once the dog is doing this reliably, you can remove the lure, and replace it with a similar gesture, such as pointing at the floor. After practising this, you will be able to stand in front of the dog and point / speak the command. With Lunik, all I have to do is flick my finger downwards and she will immediately lie down. However, she is a very fast learner, so it may take a while to get your dog to this stage. Remember, all dogs are different, and some will take longer to learn than others.

If you are having trouble using the above method, try this.

Instead of having the dog in front of you, sit on the floor with your knee bent so it forms a "bridge." With the dog on one side, use your opposite hand to lure the dog under the "bridge" of your leg. It may take a few attempts for them to understand what you want, but be patient.

Again, as soon as their chest touches the floor, click and reward. Keep repeating until the dog picks it up. Then follow the above exercise. 

It may take a little longer, but this is definately a very useful thing to teach your dog, even if it just to get them to lie down in the house, so you can have five minutes peace!

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Basic Obedience - SIT

"Sit" is one of the first things a dog should learn. It is good manners for the dog to be sat down in any social situations, especially if it is a large breed - not many people will appreciate being jumped on by a 160 pound Mastiff.

The best time to teach the basic sit is in puppyhood, as their natural clumsiness means their bums will hit the floor without too much effort on your part. I have also found this is the case with larger breeds. However, all dogs are able to learn it with patience, but you may need to experiment a bit to find out what works for your dog.

To teach the basic sit, you need to have the dog stood in front of you. Holding a treat in front of their nose, slowly lift it up and slightly back, so that their head follows it. They should naturally put their bum down. Click and reward immediately, but DO NOT say a verbal command.

If you are having trouble getting the dog to sit (for example, they keep stepping backwards instead of sitting), try positioning yourself so that the dog is between you and an obstacle that will prevent it from stepping back. Please Note: I do not recommend doing this if you have a dog that does not like to be cornered, as it could provoke a negative reaction. Instead, try placing your hand LIGHTLY on the dogs bottom, so as to stop it from moving back. DO NOT PUSH on the dogs rear, as it may be sensitive, and again, this could cause it to react in a negative manner. 

Repeat the above exercise until your dog is reliably sitting with the lure. Once this has been accomplished, you can begin to add in the verbal command "sit."

Lure the dog into the position and before you click, say "sit" in a nice voice. Click immediately and reward. At this point, it is important to note that the dog does not yet understand what "sit" means, so do not be tempted to say it BEFORE the behaviour.

Repeat the exercise until your dog is sitting reliably every time. When you get to this stage, you should be able to stop using the lure, and instead just make the hand gesture (similar to how you would hold the treat.) When I taught my GSDX this, I would stand in front of her and hold my closed fist above her head, so it still had the effect of her looking upwards.

Once your dog has learnt the correct response, you can stop using the clicker. The dog should now take the verbal / physical cue, and will display the correct behaviour. 

You should aim to practice this as often as possible, preferably several times a day. It should be incorporated into daily activities, such as on walks and at feeding time, and you should vary the rewards, so they don't expect to be rewarded EVERY TIME they display the appropriate behaviour.

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An Introduction to Clicker Training

Clicker training is the process of training an animal using a clicker simultaneously as a conditioned reinforcer for the behavior just performed, and a cue that a reinforcer can now be acquired.
The name "clicker training" is used because the primary tool is a small mechanical noisemaker called a clicker. The timing of the click indicates to the animal ("marks") the precise behavior that should be repeated in order to receive another reinforcer. Clicker training came about when Marian Kruse and Keller Breland, while studying as graduate students of Psychologist B.F. Skinner, taught wild-caught pigeons to bowl while participating in military research (^[1], and later was used in training at least 140 species including whales, bears, lions and domestic dogs and cats ... and humans. ^[2][3]. ^[4] [5]It is a technology derived from the study of operant conditioning in behavior analysis. Properly applied the clicker is only used during the acquisition phase of training a new behavior. Once the behavior is sufficiently reliable a cue(ex. verbal "SIT","DOWN") is added. At this point the clicker is no longer needed for this behavior(ie stimulus control is attained). A clicker is just one example of a conditioned reinforcer (secondary reinforcer) or "bridge"^[6]. Technically a stimulus from any sensory mode may become a conditioned reinforcer(ex. light, smells).

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clicker_training

Clicker training is possibly the most popular, and humane, form of training in the dog world. It is used by many behaviourists the world over, and the success rate for training using this method are high. The sound of the clicker is used to tell the dog it has done something right, NOT to tell the dog to do something. Both of my German Shepherd have been trained using this method, although Lunik was trained to it at a younger age than Mason. Because of this, she responds far quicker to it than he does, so I always recommend you start clicker training as soon as possible. However, even if you have an older dog, this method is still the best way to train them, you will just need a little more patience when introducing them to it.

To begin with clicker training, you first need to train the dog to associate the sound of the clicker with a reward. This reward should be a SMALL treat, so it is best to prepare plenty of these before hand. If your dog is easily distracted, you should make these treats very tempting by using something with a stronger smell, such as cheese. You can find recipes all over the internet for appetising treats, and with a bit of trial and error, you can find what works best for your dog.

Follow this simple method for teaching the dog to associate the sound of the clicker with the reward.

First, gain your dogs' attention. When they look at you, click and reward them with a treat. After repeating this several times, wait until the dogs attention is elsewhere and click. If the dog looks at you, reward it. They have now learnt what the sound of the clicker means. If they do not respond, repeat the above until they do. All dogs have the capacity to learn, but like people, some make take a little longer to pick it up. Be patient.

Once you have completed this simple introduction to the clicker, you can begin using it to teach your dogs basic obedience and tricks. It is also effective when teaching agility, especially if you are having trouble teaching the dog certain obstacles.

Now you know the basics of clicker training, and have taught the dog what the clicker means, you can begin to teach them basic obedience and tricks.

PLEASE NOTE: This blog is NOT a replacement for puppy classes. It is highly important that your dog attends these classes, not only so you are under the supervision and guidance of a qualified professional, but it is also a good social experience, not only for the dog, but for yourself as well. This blog is intended as a guide to help you with the basics, especially if you are having trouble finding what works best for your dog, and also to give you some ideas for fun tricks to show your friends. It should NOT be used instead of seeking the help of a qualified professional.

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Looking for a new dog? Please Read.

Are you thinking about purchasing a new dog? Getting a cute little puppy to love and cuddle?

Have you considered rescuing one of the many dogs that are abandoned and mistreated every year? If not, please reconsider.

The majority of dogs in rescue centres are there through no fault of their own. In times like these, when the whole world as tightening the purse strings, many dogs are being abandoned simply because the owners can not afford to keep them. These poor dogs then spend months in small cages, waiting for someone to throw them a lifeline, and although most rescue centres do their best to care for the animals, this can have a detrimental effect on the dog and its behaviour. When someone finally notices them, some behave in a way they normally wouldn't. This gives them even less of a chance at being re-homed, and they end up living out their lives without the TLC they truly deserve.

Taking on a rescue dog is a wonderful thing, and it gives you a sense of fulfilment.

However, I understand that some people are reluctant to take on a dog that has a history, and possible behavioural issues. After all, everyone wants a well-behaved companion. But is it really that different from getting a puppy? Mostly, rescue dogs are house-trained and have some basic training. However, a puppy requires house-training, obedience training, and they demand a lot more of your time than an adult dog, who is usually happy to just curl up in front of a warm fire. Yes, it is recommended that you continue their training, teaching them manners, as well as other things they may not have learnt, but patience will always pay off. It's a wonderful feeling when that trick you've been practising comes together, and you can show your family and friends just what your dog can do.

Before you purchase a puppy, please consider the 100's of dogs that are in rescue centres every year. The staff will do their best to match you with a dog that suits your lifestyle.

Contact your local centre for more details.

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Bad dogs?

I'm sick of hearing about German Shepherds gone bad. When you hear about dog attacks in the news, you can almost Guarantee it will mention German Shepherd, Rottweiler or Staffordshire Bull Terrier. People are led to believe that all dogs of these breeds are viscious brutes who can not be trusted around humans.

Newsflash: THEY'RE NOT!!!!

I, myself, own two German Shepherds (one purebred, one part Samoyed), and I know several people who own, or have owned, this breed.

They are immensely loyal, easy to train, protective when they need to be, and make great family pets - IF they are brought up correctly, as is the case with ALL dogs.

My GSD cross, (the bitch) has been with me for over two years. She was 11 weeks old when I had her from a rescue centre. Her training began straight away with puppy classes. After sailing through them, I kept up her obedience training, as well as moving on to teach her tricks and agility. She is a lovely dog who, although a little bit timid around strangers, would never hurt a soul. She loves running around with children, never chasing them, but will happily lie down quietly when she is told to.

On the other hand, my male GSD came to me about a year ago at the age of one. His previous owners had left him to his own devices, locked up all day with nothing to do other than chew the kitchen floor, door frames and whatever else he could find. 

When he came to me, he would not even sit down on command. He was also very frightened of men, owing to the fact that instead of being taught the difference between right and wrong with the proper techniques, he was punished harshly for doing things he was never taught NOT to do. This, of course, led to more bad behaviour, as it seemed to be the only way he could get attention.

Most people would view this as a problem. I saw it as an opportunity to gain some experience for my course.

To make a long story short(ish!), in just over a year, he has learnt basic obedience, several fun tricks, and he loves people coming to the house. Although he still needs some work where men are concerned, he is mostly a happy-go-lucky dog. 

Statistically, more people are bitten by Jack Russells than they are GSD's. However, because of their smaller soze, these attacks go mostly unreported. 

More often than not, you will find that the owners of these aggressive dogs have trained them to be this way, especially Bull Terrier-types, who are often used as status symbols. 

Dog ownership is a privilege, and only those who truly understand the needs of a dog should be allowed to keep them, even if that means bringing back a license. This would help to prevent bad owners from turning such wonderful creatures into the monster's that many (mostly cat owners or petless people) perceive them to be.

All you need is a bit of time and patience. It may surprise you when you see exactly what your dog can do when YOU make the effort.

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Who am I?

My name is Kelly.

I am a dog fanatic, and German Shepherd owner. 

I am studying Canine Behaviour, and have set up this page to give others like myself something to read. I will be including news wherever I can, as well as my own opinions on dog-related matters.

I will also post trick training, which will (hopefully) include pictures and/or videos wherever possible, and the methods I used to teach them. As you can see, my female German Shepherd, Lunik, is the inspiration for the page, as well as the title. She is known as "Lunik the Lunatic" to friends, so it seemed apt.

Please feel free to send me any questions, suggestions etc, including tricks you would like to teach, and I will do my best to help. 

Note: I cannot advise on inappropriate behaviours, as I am not fully qualified. If you are having any problems with your dog's behaviour, PLEASE contact your local Behaviourist. I'm sure your vet will be willing to recommend one. 

Thanks for visiting, I will do my best to update as regularly as possible.

Kindest Regards,

Kelly xx

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